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Overland Adventures Across Africa: When The Journey Equals The Destination

Illustration by Manelisi Dabata
Published 27 days ago
Sasha Star

There’s nothing like a cross-continental journey or overland adventure – with social media following along – to experience the diversity, culture, music, fashion, food and art in Africa. All you need is a trusty vehicle, self-belief and a few good friends that you will definitely make along the way.

An airplane is definitely the quickest way to venture between countries, but more and more travelers are now opting for the scenic route — and taking their time to take it all in.

“With road trips there is the joy of just being able to stop,” explains Pelumi Nubi, whose epic journey across Africa saw her accumulate more than 10,000 kilometers by car. “With other means of transport, like flights, trains, boats, you go from point A to point B and there is very little control. But with road trips, if something catches your attention, you have the power to diverge.”

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The three doctors, James Weller, Karen Chang and James Spence, by their Toyota Hilux, which almost gave up but didn’t (Image Supplied)

The Nigerian-born content creator moved to the United Kingdom when she was 10 years old and has visited over 80 countries worldwide. Yet, it was her 74-day journey from the English capital to her birthplace, in a purple Peugeot 107 that she nick- named Lumi, that made her “the first Black woman to travel solo overland from London to Lagos”.

“I came up with the idea of driving from London to Lagos, connecting my two homes, to showcase Africa as a continent, because a lot of times, it doesn’t get the credit or the storytelling and exposure that I think it deserves.”

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“Africa receives less than 5% of global tourism,” reveals the CEO of the African Tourism Association (ATA), Naledi Khabo. “If you’re flooded with news and there’s just negative news stories, that’s what people remember. Unfortunately, I also think people can’t conceptualize the breadth and length that is Africa. And so, anything that happens in one place must be happening across the entire continent.”

“We stayed in some really nice hotels and I guess we didn’t know there was quite so much luxury,” recalls James Weller, who drove from London to Cape Town with fellow doctors, Karen Chang and James Spence.

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The three Brits — and their 2010 Toyota Hilux D-4D double cab named Edna — amassed an enormous social media following during their cross-continental journey.

“We never expected it at all,” Weller says of the trio’s Instagram account, @london.2.capetown, garnering almost half a million followers. “We made the account just for this trip, kind of to document it and so that our friends and family could follow along.”

Proving that the people you meet along the way are just as important as the journey itself, the three had a chance encounter with a travel blogger in Morocco doing a similar trip who then posted them on his Insta story. “Before we knew it, we were at 10,000 [followers] and then 20,000 and 50,000. And then it wasn’t long before we were at 100,000, 200,000… Part of it was the mystery of people going, ‘oh, are they going to make it?’ I think that obviously drew a lot of people in as well.”

The short answer to that question is… almost not. With a limited budget, Chang, Spence, and Weller, purchased Edna with the knowledge that she had some rust on the chassis. What they didn’t know, is just how bad it was. The constant cracking— and an out-of-commission airconditioner during 50-degree Celsius weather — meant that the trio spent a significant amount of time in garages and backyard repair shops along the trip.

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In the end, though, all four made it to the Mother City, Cape Town.

“People were rooting for her to get to the end. We definitely didn’t want to give up on her.”

Nubi agrees: “[Following a collision with a truck in the Ivory Coast] There was the option of renting a new car and finishing the journey from Abidjan to Lagos. But I just had this strong instinct that, you know, I started with Lumi], I’m going to end with her.”

“I think that the more you travel, the more capacity you have to be able to tolerate unforeseen cumstances when they do arise,” says Cape Town-based clinical psychologist, Yanir Grindler. “When traveling, oftentimes, you have to make use of limited resources. That leads to an incredible amount of resilience and trust in your own abilities and inabilities.”

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Belief in herself is one thing Udoh Ebaide Joy did not forget to pack when she set out on her three- month adventure to become “the first African woman to ride from Kenya to Nigeria on a motorcycle”.

A traumatic car accident at the age of 23 left the Nigerian native with a damaged spinal cord and the inability to walk for eight months. Now 32, Ebaide Joy is determined to live life to the fullest, in the face of fear and constant pain.

“I live with screws and rods holding my spinal cord. People will never truly understand how thrilling it is using a motorcycle, knowing that I am not so whole. I am partly disabled and I’m still using it. It makes me so much more careful, knowing that if anything bad were to happen, it could be really, really bad for me because I already have something. And that makes it even more exciting.” Regardless of having had very little riding experience before embarking on her trip, Ebaide Joy couldn’t imagine traveling any other way. “Motorcyclists never go to the therapist,” she claims. “The motorcycle is enough — it fixes your brain, whatever you are going through, whatever sadness, whatever is stopping you, you get on the motorcycle, you will forget it for that period of time. Even when your thoughts circle back to it, the next move you have to make on the motorcycle will bring your thoughts back to the present.”

Udoh Ebaide Joy had little riding experience before embarking on the trip (Image Supplied)

Another advantage is the global community to which bikers belong.

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“The bike enables you to meet different people, different cultures, and make more friends,” notes Sthembiso Mthembu, whose BMW R 1250 GS saw him through 11 countries as he traversed 13,650 kilometers between South Africa’s coastal city of Durban and Kenya.

“It is like a brotherhood or sisterhood, the biking community. Even if it’s the first time you meet, there’s a connection. You can be riding or standing by the road, if a biker passes you, he’ll definitely stop, ask where you’re from, if you need any help. Bikers are like a family.”

Despite it being a solo trip, the thriving motorcycle community throughout Africa ensured that Mthembu never felt truly alone. Following updates on his Facebook page, riders in various countries reached out to offer the South African, accommodation, meals, and company.

“Human connection is a basic need. We are born wanting to connect. The first thing we do as we leave our mother’s womb is try to reconnect and create a bond,” Grindler states. “To tolerate days or months without any social connection can take a real toll.”

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For Nubi, solo trips are “empowering”, but she does admit to experiencing bouts of loneliness en route. “I think it was in Mauritania. There was an incredible sunset and I was taking a picture to send to a friend and getting so frustrated because the picture wasn’t capturing the way it looked, you know? So, there are many moments where you just go, ‘ah, I wish I could share this’. Because the thing about a solo trip, it’s great, it’s absolutely incredible, but it’s a memory that only you have. You cannot go and call someone and say, ‘hey, remember the time when we…,’ like, there is none of that. It’s just your memories and you almost have to be extra present in it because if you lose it or if you don’t catch the moment, then it’s gone.”

Pelumi Nubi’s 74-day solo road trip was from the English capital to her birthplace in Nigeria (Image Supplied)

Although solo endeavors may be lonesome, traveling with others — even those nearest and dearest— can present its own set of issues, as Weller and his mates discovered.

“Spending three to four months together, in a car, in a tent, was pretty challenging to say the least… even at the best of times, we argue. I think agreeing to disagree is quite important, because you’re always going to disagree about stuff, but you have to evaluate how important it is and whether it really matters who is right or wrong. That said, it is difficult when you have to make so many decisions.”

Grindler believes that traveling in a group can offer the opportunity for personal growth: “It’s about tolerating and being able to negotiate, while also being respectful of each other’s strengths and limits. It’s also about being aware that not everything you decide is the right decision.”

Being alone on such grand adventures also forces one to take extra precautions when it comes to safety. Both Nubi and Ebaide Joy avoided posting social media updates in real time and driving at night; while the doctors regularly consulted the British government’s travel advisory. Mthembu, however, recalls feeling safe enough to hand over his cellphone to random locals in Rwanda to take a picture — something he wouldn’t fathom doing in South Africa.

“I think that in any country, in any city, you need to be aware of your surroundings and act accordingly,” says Khabo. “I also think that when things happen across Africa, they are magnified and similar things can happen in other places, like New York, for example — yet no one stops coming to the United States. You can’t attribute one city’s hotspot to the entire continent and then ask, ‘is the entire continent safe’?”

“There is serious kindness in Africa. If we care to look for it, there is kindness,” Ebaide Joy acknowledges.

“Whilst we were in the Ivory Coast, the car got stuck in the mud in the middle of a forest and we didn’t know how we’d get it out,” Weller recalls. “We tried all night. In the morning, some people came past and we asked them if they could help. They didn’t speak English, we didn’t speak French. But so many of them came to help that we managed to push it out!”

Language barriers are just one of the hurdles that come with crossing various countries. Waiting on travel documents and dealing with border officials can result in numerous delays, additional expenses, and occasionally put a stop to entry altogether.

“We need a borderless Africa,” argues Ebaide Joy. “I am planning a Eurotour next year. I only need one visa to go to all European countries, but I needed a visa for almost every country I traveled as a Black woman in Africa. If there can be a borderless Africa, it will change the narrative significantly. Tourism will thrive better in Africa. It is just wrong that I can travel another continent much, much easier than my own.” According to Khabo, discussions about ease of entry are taking place behind the scenes. “I think governments are hearing and understand why it’s important. You’re seeing more and more governments on an individual level make it easier for travelers to enter their country, either with visas-on-arrival or no-visa policies. And regionally, countries are coming up with solutions so that upon entry into one country, that single visa can be used in neighboring countries. You’re seeing it in East Africa.

“There are always security issues and political issues, but I think that there’s an understanding that ease of entry is a major factor in travel and tourism. And so, you’re seeing a shift. It may be slow, but it’s definitely happening.”

Sthembiso Mthembu’s journey on a BMW R 1250 GS through 11 countries (Image Supplied)

Should such a shift occur, it may result in even more travelers embarking on overland adventures, which will only benefit communities, as Khabo notes: “It offers a unique experience. You’re literally crossing from town to town and seeing the terrain change and supporting the local economies in a way that you wouldn’t ordinarily. It showcases our incredible diversity, our culture, music, fashion, art, food. And the more that you see other people do it, the more people understand that it’s possible.”

“I would get messages from teachers saying, ‘we’ve ditched the school curriculum because my students and I literally just watch your journey in class’. Emails from 70-year-old women who tell me, ‘I literally feel like restarting my life because for so long I had this big adventure within me, but society told me I couldn’t do it. And now seeing you do it just gives me so much hope,’” Nubi reveals.

“As long as you are sure you can do, don’t mind what people say,” Ebaide Joy insists. “Whatever fears they put into you, however much they say you can’t do it, the first person to believe in it is you. If you think you can do it and you believe in a yourself, you should absolutely go for it.”

More times than not, it is ourselves who become obstacles in our own path, as Nubi acknowledges.

“We always wait for the perfect situation, but most of the time we already have the thing that we need to get to that destination. We just, you know, need to be a little bit braver.” People often say that it is not about the destination, but about the journey. Regardless of whether you choose to go fast, far, solo, or together, perhaps the answer is to just… go!

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