The tiger has always played a part in our collective consciousness, often interpreted as a symbol of power, strength and beauty. In Hindu culture, the tiger is revered as the sacred vehicle of Durga, the warrior goddess.
And I had the opportunity to come face-to-face with this mighty animal on a recent trip through the forests of central India where a majority of them still roam.
I arrived at the Bandhavgarh National Park (BNP), in the Indian state of Madhya Pradesh, by plane from New Delhi, landing in Jabalpur and then by car to the park; a journey of 600 miles to visit the home of an animal that has existed for two million years.
Known to have evolved from the saber-toothed cat that lived 32 million years ago, tigers have spread from their original home in China and evolved into many subspecies including the Royal Bengal Tiger of India. The BNP was the hunting preserve of the rulers of the state in the 1800s and has hosted many hunters from the British Raj; it has documented killings of over 350 cats by one particular hunter during his five-year posting in India. At the close of the 19th century, when Rudyard Kipling penned The Jungle Book, some 50,000 to 100,000 tigers were thought to roam the Indian subcontinent.
The tiger once ranged widely across Asia, from Anatolian Turkey in the west to Kamchatka, in the eastern coast of Russia; over the past 100 years tigers have disappeared from southwest and central Asia. According to the World Wildlife Fund (WWF), tigers inhabit less than 6% of their historic range with a 42% decline since 2006. Breeding populations of tigers are currently found in eight range states: Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Indonesia, Malaysia, Nepal, Russia, and Thailand.
Since 1900, the number of tigers in the wild has shrunk from an estimated 100,000 to as few as 3,200. WWF is working toward a bold but achievable goal to double the number of tigers in the wild by 2022, the next Year of the Tiger. A 2015 news report reveals healthy population increases in all ranges in south and central India.
Strictly-managed and controlled jeep safaris are the only way one can encounter these magnificent animals in their natural habitat. My first encounter on my trip was with a mother and her three grown cubs that paced majestically through the sal tree forest, disappearing often into the high grass that grows after the monsoons.
This was the beginning of a four-day, 32-hour photographic ‘hunt’ for these animals. Sighting and photographing seven of them was not easy since they are primarily active in the wee hours, returning after a hunt, or during dusk before a hunt. Being solitary animals and effectively camouflaged, tracking them is one of the great joys and challenges of wildlife photography.
BNP allows a maximum of 32 jeeps per day in two four-hour windows. This capacity control was established by Project Tiger, an Indian initiative to protect the tigers. The park has a huge variety of mammals such as black bears, antelopes, deer, reptiles including crocodiles and snakes, and over 350 species of birds.
At 6AM on a cold morning, I was filled with excitement when I spotted a young male tiger, looking tired and hungry after an unsuccessful night of hunting. He approached my jeep from 600 feet away, oblivious to my presence and walked within a few feet marking his territory along the way.
Tigers need to kill 60-75 large prey animals per year. They are opportunistic predators, however, their diet includes birds, fish, rodents, insects, amphibians and reptiles in addition to other mammals such as primates and porcupines. Tigers can also take ungulate prey much larger than themselves, including the water buffalo, Indian bison, small elephants and on occasion even rhinos. Bandhavgarh boasts all of the above animals except the rhino and elephant which are distributed further north in Chitwan Park near the border with Nepal, another known tiger range.
On my last evening, after patiently waiting near a waterhole for two hours, I was rewarded with a large male tiger emerging from the bamboo thicket to drink water barely 15 feet away. His majesty made for some amazing pictures. I left Bandhavgarh and my lovely lodge with a heavy heart knowing that this tiger could be the victim of poachers any time.
National Geographic reports that it is rarely poor locals who are poaching the tigers – it’s organized gangs.
“Tigers are part of a massive wildlife trade that’s run by sophisticated international crime syndicates, the same trade that’s wiping out elephants, rhinos and so many other species. It’s a $19-billion-a-year business,” quotes the magazine.
These majestic cats are being slaughtered across India and the entire Southeast Asian range, mostly for their bones and magnificent pelts. Smuggled into China for use in expensive traditional tonics, tiger bones are thought to impart the animal’s great energy and strength. In addition, across their entire distribution, tigers face unrelenting pressure from retaliatory killings by farmers and habitat loss. They are forced to compete for space with an ever-growing human population.
Alas, in the end, it would seem their fate is no different from their fierce, feline and equally-famous cousin – the African lion.

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Tracking India’s Feisty Feline

That Africa is the new mecca of international luxury brands is constantly reiterated by the number of new players in the market. The development of home-grown luxury brands is also more topical. And with these brands have come experts, such as Lola Emeruwa, who has worked for big global brands such as Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Stella McCartney and Net a Porter in mega cities like London, Milan, Paris, New York, and more recently, with Ermenegildo Zegna in Lagos. As the founder of Le Retail Operations Management, a luxury retail consultancy firm in Nigeria, Emeruwa’s work spans retail operation analysis to buying and merchandizing. One of her key projects is a co-venture with WISH publishing to create a new retail avenue for high-end hotels in Nigeria. We caught up with Emeruwa mid-2015 to discuss the growing luxury market in Africa’s biggest economy.
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Given your extensive background in international luxury fashion, what challenges does the African market face in this regard? How receptive are consumers to luxury in Africa?
Consumers are certainly very receptive to luxury in Nigeria and it is reflective of what I like to refer to as ‘The Nigerian Dream – the pursuit of finer things’. In a superficial assessment, you can see this desire fully expressed in a city like Lagos – in the abundance of luxury cars, upsurge of upmarket hotels, increased development of luxury retail spaces and surprisingly frequent conversations about the charter of private jets.
This is a reflection of great improvements in sub-Saharan Africa’s economic performance since the turn of the century, which grew at an average rate of 5.5% per annum in real terms between 2000 to 2012, compared to 2.54% per annum during the previous 13-year period.
Significantly, this growth has been despite factors such as limited infrastructure, little investment and lack of formal organization. Whilst on other continents this would pose as challenges, these are in fact just accepted here as the norm. In terms of the luxury retail industry, I believe the challenges are the same as in Europe or America: implementing effective marketing, new customer acquisition, logistical problems etc. However, for those trying to enter the Nigerian market and who are used to a more structured means of operating, it will be advisable to partner with a local expert.
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What is your company’s vision for the Nigerian market?
Our vision is to develop a productive synergy for international brands looking to enter the Nigerian market. In addition, Le Retail intends to be the reference point for support and integration of local brands into the global market by ensuring international industry practice standards are met.
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What areas will improve the viability of the Nigerian luxury retail space?
In the long term, improvement of infrastructure and power supply and in the short term, more sector deregulation of restrictions which would encourage capital inflow and increased investment.
Whilst infrastructure and energy projects are already ongoing (our election promise), I believe establishing a more formalized industry will give investors the confidence to diversify into the Nigerian luxury retail space.

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Private Jets, Hip Hotels And Deep Pockets

It is 8PM on a warm Friday night at Eko Hotel in Victoria Island in Nigeria and a $480,000, white Rolls-Royce screeches to a halt. A 2015 red Lamborghini Aventador, with a retail price of $548,800, follows it shortly, revving its engine before joining an array of black Mercedes G Classes, which elegantly litter the parking lot.
Victoria Island is the wealthiest district of Lagos and home to one of the biggest congregations of millionaires in the world. Theo Tiemessen, Manager at the plush Eko Signature hotel, says these millionaires are demanding customers.
“They have good taste and they are willing to pay for good meals and fresh products,” he says.
Around 80% of the guests at Eko Signature come from outside the hotel. The customers are predominantly top government and banking officials who use the hotel for their meetings. Specialist businesses have sprung up to cater for the particular needs of this affluent group.
“We had guests in the hotel once who asked for camel milk for their infant child, they would not take anything else,” says Tiemessen.
Ultra high net worth individuals (UHNWIs) are classified by having liquid assets worth more than $5 million. The number of UHNWIs in Africa will increase by a staggering 59% over the next 10 years, according to the Wealth Report 2015 and Nigeria will have one of the highest growth rates in UHNWIs over the next decade.
Aderemi Ajidahun is the CEO of Hole19 Group, which specializes in providing luxury retail products to the rich. The group’s flagship brand is Zakaa, a retailer of luxury brands such as Brioni, Angelo Galasso and Maurice Lacroix.
“Our clients are mostly extravagant spenders with a unique taste. They only want the best and the most unique timepieces which cannot be found in any other shops,” says Ajidahun.
Last year, Ajidahun sold one of those timepieces for a staggering $250,000. His showroom in Maitama, an exclusive district in Abuja, caters to the wealthiest.
“Our female clients usually only want the pieces they have seen on the runway and it is our job to make sure that they have them,” says Ajidahun.
Kunle Bello runs Platinum Concierge, a company that provides specialty services for the affluent in Mayfair, one of London’s wealthiest areas. A lot of his clients are wealthy Nigerians.
“We provide services that cater to the needs of UHNWIs. Our services range from organizing exclusive parties, catering, booking holiday packages, property and whatever the client needs,” says Bello.
The number of Nigerians buying luxury properties in Britain has risen sharply since Bello started his business three years ago.
“Two months ago, I sold a property to an oil entrepreneur for just over $6 million,” he says.
The super-rich travel in style and have private jets waiting for them at airports. Nigeria is currently the largest market in Africa for Bombardier.
“Average flight time an hour costs about $8,000 for those who do not own their own jets but still want to travel in style,” says Bello.
Those who can afford their own planes will have to part with $25 million to $65 million for a new Gulfstream. Around 1,200 private jets land at Murtala Muhammed International Airport in Lagos every month.
“It costs upwards of $4 million a year to maintain a private jet with two fulltime captains and a flight attendant on standby, in addition to related airport handling services,” says Bello.
Despite tough economic times, it seems Nigeria’s rich are able to maintain their lavish lifestyles.

The Rich Get All The Camel Milk And Jets They Need

There are 163,000 of them, and many of them have been in this magazine. They are prepared to pay $3.5 million for a place to sleep.
That’s the number of dollar millionaires in Africa, according to a report by New World Wealth; a Johannesburg research company.
According to the report, Johannesburg has 46,800 millionaires. About 600 of those have over $30 million. Egypt is next with 20,200 millionaires; Nigeria with 15,400 and Kenya 8,500.
African high net worth individual numbers have increased by 145% in the past 14 years compared to the worldwide growth rate of 73% over the same period. Angola is the top performing African country with growth of just over 480%, according to the study.
With rising numbers of millionaires in Africa, what do they do with their money?
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Property is popular.
While Johannesburg is home to most wealthy South Africans, Cape Town is not far behind. The most expensive spots for prime property in Africa are the V&amp;A Marina, Clifton and Bantry Bay in Cape Town.
According to the Western Cape Managing Director of Pam Golding Properties, Laurie Wener, South Africa’s wealthy buy Cape Town trophy properties on the famous Atlantic Seaboard or in Bishopscourt for no less than $1.4 million.
“The wealthy also invest in smaller apartments in different areas, sometimes off plan, for relatively good rental returns and medium to long-term capital growth. They buy properties off plan speculatively for short-term growth by the time they take transfer and commercial investors generally look for higher returns and often buy in partnerships or syndicates and to hold long term,” she says.
The ambitions of the rich also reach 143 meters above the Sandton skyline. Here in the clouds over the Michelangelo Towers, a penthouse is on sale for $3.5 million. That’s a record.
Rupert Finnemore of Pam Golding Properties, in Hyde Park, says that the previous highest price in Sandton City shopping centre is $3.1 million.
The striking Diamond Walk at Sandton City dazzles with a brilliant new clutch of the world’s most wanted brands such as Prada, Dolce &amp; Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Burberry, Ermenegildo Zegna, Billionaire Italian Couture, Jimmy Choo, Tod’s and Arque Champagne Crescent.
“Sandton City’s new Diamond Walk adds yet another luxurious dimension to the ultimate shopping variety and experience on the continent,” says Alex Phakathi, Stanlib Fund Manager for the Liberty Property Portfolio.
The Diamond Walk was built on the high demand from the wealthy as the African luxury sector generated an estimated $8 billion in revenue in 2014; with $2.8 billion coming out of South Africa.
Collectables such as art, wine and classic automobiles are increasingly popular and accounted for $5.3 billion of the total assets of African high net worth individuals at the end of 2014, according to New World Wealth.
The company estimates $32 million was generated in South African sales of watches alone in 2014; up from $23 million in 2013.
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“A few years ago, wealthy South Africans had to order these watches through relevant retailers overseas or travel to places such as Bond Street in London to buy them. Now, most of these brands can be purchased over the counter from South African stores,” says wealth analyst Andrew Amoils of New World Wealth.
The rich also spend their time and money relaxing at sea. Amoils says the South African yacht industry generates about $150 million per year.
According to the study, Angola and South Africa are the top spots for yachting in sub-Saharan Africa. Morocco and Egypt are the top spots in North Africa. The yacht owners are mostly male, between the ages of 40 to 50, with average earnings of over $300,000 per year.
Mauritians are the wealthiest in Africa with $21,470 in wealth per person while people in the Democratic Republic of Congo are the poorest with $230 per person, according to Amoils.
“If you look at the asset allocation of the average South African millionaire, about 30% of their assets are in business interests, 25 % in equities, about 20% in property and then rest will be in cash, fixed income instruments, bonds and alternative investments like collectables like art,” says Amoils.
The ambitions of Africa’s elite are high.

The Rich At Play

Bears larger than bison, national parks the size of nations, and glaciers bigger than other countries in the United States (US).
This is how Lonely Planet introduces Alaska to its readers. I would add: a land as vast as the eye can see, solitude as quiet as a pin drop, and nature and wilderness as expansive as the mind can stretch.
The word ‘epic’ barely does Alaska justice. Despite being the largest American state, one feels less confronted by its amazing infrastructure which one can use to see and enjoy its might.
Alaska spans a vast array of ecosystems, from open, wind-swept tundra bordering the Arctic Ocean and Bering Sea through the expansive boreal forests of its vast interior to impressive temperate rainforests along the Pacific coast.
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Glaciers cover 30,000 square miles of Alaska, which is 5% of the state. The weather of Alaska varies within its great expanse. The climate in the Southern oceanic front is mid latitude oceanic with heavy rains, while the interior is sub-arctic with a warm, short summer season. The extreme north is truly Arctic with dry freezing temperatures even in summer.
As a frequent polar traveler, my main interests include glaciers mostly found in the lower half of the state. With over 1,00,000 glaciers in the state, only 600 have been named mainly due to their immensity. Taking a float plane on at least three occasions, I photographed over 15 different glaciers and in one case landed right on the deep lake formed in the face of the glacier with several floating icebergs which made landing a nightmare.
After visiting the Wrangel-St.Elias National Park, the largest in the world, larger than Switzerland with some glaciers bigger than the state of Rhode Island, I paid homage to Denali National Park which contains North America’s largest mountain, Mount Denali, standing at 23,310 feet (Tanzania’s Mount Kilimanjaro stands at 19,336 feet).
It is home to grizzly bears, wolves, moose, fox, deer and lynx cat amongst the 33 types of mammals resident. Due to the large number of visitors to the park, travel is restricted to special buses and one needs to trek or back-pack to truly enjoy this park. Denali is etched in every American’s mind and has become a must-see on every senior citizens’ bucket list.
With a keen interest in wildlife photography I set off for Lake Clark National Park, accessible only by float plane. Flying over the Cook Inlet and parts of the Alaska Range, we landed on Crescent Lake under very arduous and windy conditions. I soon saw a pair of sows with cubs and large single male bear on the salmon prowl. With Sockeye salmon returning to their birthplace after four years at sea, to spawn on the very stream they hatched, the lake and the river was teeming with the Alaskan brown bears. With males reaching over 1400lbs, these amazing beasts were fishing for salmon and engorging themselves before the first snow soon to arrive by mid September. These bears would then dig dens, often moving over a ton of soil to hibernate for the winter.
One of the greatest spots for sport fishing in the US is the remote Katmai National Park. It takes a wheeled bush plane and then a float plane; typically a Cessna Caravan or De Havilland Otter to reach this park. With several lakes, streams and an inaccessible interior, Katmai is also a hot bed for watching bears. At the Brooks Falls in the height of July, pink salmon en route to their spawning grounds, jump the cataracts of the Brooks River, where the bears merely stand with their mouths gaping, to feed.
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Alaska in autumn is where nature puts on an amazing show of colors. The amazing change in the color of the trees and plants alongside snow-covered mountain vistas, is an idyllic North American setting indeed. Principal species of trees include white spruce, birch, and quaking aspen on uplands, black spruce and tamarack in forested wetlands, and balsam poplar within floodplains. Bursts of red, yellow and orange, interspersed with evergreens covered under clear blue skies together with a crisp autumn chill in the air, perks up one’s senses.
Amazing road trips along the Denali, Dalton (Arctic Highway), Richardson and Glen Highways gives the traveler an opportunity to enjoy nature, see wildlife and talk to Alaskan settlers, who came in as early as 1898 for the Klondike Gold Rush.
The history of this great land first occupied by the Russians (1784), purchased by the US (1867), populated by the gold rush prospectors from Canada and the US in 1898, and finally the drilling of oil in the Arctic in the 1970s, makes an interesting story. Yet it is perhaps one of the last frontiers where nature still trumps over man.

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The Last Frontier Of The Americas

Maria Diamantopoulou, who has the distinction of being Greece’s first female ambassador in South Africa, is dressed in a pale lime green suit. It is an apt choice, immediately conjuring up the myriad of blue, teal and turquoise colors of the Mediterranean she is from.
Like the warm hues, her persona too is calm and placid. As Greece’s top-ranking representative to South Africa, she conducts high-level negotiations with the local government, and is responsible for her many countrymen resident in the Rainbow Nation.
We meet her in September, the month her two-year term comes to a close. It’s a crucial time to ask her some key questions pertaining to her stint, and her country’s recent economic crisis. She talks about how her Africa job was fulfilling in every way.
“I love this job because not every day is the same. I never know what to expect and it is always fun to meet people and engage on life-changing issues,” says Diamantopoulou.
And of course she is no stranger to random, or pointed, questions on the Greek financial crisis.
“The Greek people suffered for a long time,” she says painfully.
“Greece lost 25 percent of its GDP in such a short space of time.”
Diamantopoulou says most of the money in the new bailout package will be used to repay existing debt rather than rebuild the shattered Greek economy.
“Other countries in Africa can learn from this crisis to avoid similar problems. Countries should learn that challenges are the same around the world. I can see the first signs of [trouble, for example] unemployment in South Africa which is a very important issue. I always tell my South African friends and counterparts to try and learn from what we suffered,” she says.
Diamantopoulou encourages African countries to implement measures while there is still time to ensure the same crisis does not befall them.
“The public sector and bureaucracy are two of the main issues that any economy should focus on to improve and try to shrink so that there is more room for investment, growth of the private sector and small to medium businesses which are very important,” she says.
It has been a tough job at the helm.
“It is not easy being in such a position be it as a man or a woman because you have to prove who you are and what you can do,” she says.
Her main concern is the development of tourism, which contributes more than 15% of Greece’s annual Gross Domestic Product. She says tourism continues to grow despite the issues.
“Tourism is a big part of Greece’s economy just as it’s in South Africa and other countries on the continent. In Greece, there were 22 million visitors last year and this year, there has already been 26 million.”
And have South Africa’s own new tourism regulations affected the number of visitors coming from Greece? She says it hasn’t.
“Greeks are adventurous people. They like to travel the world,” she smiles.
Now heading back home, to Athens, Diamantopoulou says she will miss South Africa.
“I love this country and its potential. South Africans are beautiful people who smile all the time and I regret not having had enough time to travel while I was here. I will make sure to come back as a tourist and enjoy this beautiful nation.”
She says she relates to South Africa and always feels at home here because the people from both countries have suffered the effects of colonization.
“South Africans and the Greeks have a special relationship. We know the struggle for democracy and we defend human rights. We suffered the same way which makes me feel at home here,” she says.
For Diamantopoulou, it is good-bye for now but it seems not forever.

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Lessons From Greece

With the new South African visa regulations, it’s not just the small B&amp;Bs taking a hit – the high-end is feeling the effects too.
Foreigners who want to visit South Africa must apply for visas in person at South African embassies to have their biometric data captured. Residents of countries who require a short-stay visa for South Africa, and do not have a South African embassy in their country or city, will have to travel. Parents and guardians traveling with children must be in possession of an unabridged birth certificate.
The travel and tourism sector directly employs an estimated 679,500 people, is growing at a rate of 3% and contributes directly and indirectly to 9.4% of South Africa’s GDP. But Cape Town’s top-end is feeling the brunt of the legislature. The Westin, at R2,330 ($167) a night, is situated at the entrance of the Victoria &amp; Alfred Waterfront; with views of Table Mountain, Lion’s Head and the entirety of Table Bay. Within walking distance from town it’s a firm favorite for tourists. It’s an easy sell but the five-star hotel has already taken a hit.
“At The Westin, we have started to see the ramifications that the new visa regulations is having on the tourism industry. Damage to the local tourism industry has already begun.  We definitely anticipate a lull for the festive season this year. A further concern is the collateral damage that comes from this, such as the strain on the South African economy as well as job loss,” says Rob Kucera, FEDHASA (Federated Hospitality Association of South Africa) Cape Chairman and GM for The Westin Cape Town.
Occupancy rates have dropped significantly for The Westin. A study commissioned by the Tourism Business Council of South Africa said the tourism industry lost R886 million ($63 million) in direct spending last year because of the regulations and fears that Ebola might spread from West Africa. It’s estimated that South Africa is set to lose 100,000 tourists this year, translating into a R1.4-billion ($100 million) loss.
“We have changed our strategy to find business in other market segments and countries. We have taken a hit over our current winter period and the upcoming season will not be as good as last year,” says Kucera.
“There is no doubt that due to the new visa regulations we have challenging times ahead. As the industry body for the hospitality sector we are committed to encouraging these conversations for the benefit of the tourism industry and ultimately to safeguard the international tourist impression of South Africa as a holiday destination of choice,” he says.
South Africa’s President Jacob Zuma announced that a new inter-ministerial committee has been established to deal with the unintended consequences of the new travel visa regulations. The regulations are coming under fire – not only for the effects on the tourism industry but for the justification of them. The consequences come at a bad time for South Africa; the economy shrank by an unexpected 1.3% in the second quarter.
Tourism minister, Derek Hanekom, admits tourism has been hit. He said the number of visitors from China, one of South Africa’s major markets, has dropped by nearly 40% – and the numbers for other markets were similar.
In defense of the regulations, Home Affairs director-general Mkuseli Apleni briefed parliament. In his report, he claimed an estimated 30,000 children, 50% of whom are under the age of 14, are trafficked through South Africa every year, and that the new regulations would protect those children. The figure has since been dispelled by Africa Check and in parliament, it was stated that 23 children had been trafficked in a three-year period.
With too much room in the inn on all fronts, the tourism industry’s fears are mounting

Too Much Room In The Inn

Before he had reached the age of 10, Amos Wekesa put all his energy into smuggling goods at Uganda’s border with Kenya in the mountainous area of Mbale. He also tried his hand at making mats from banana fibers to earn a little money to support his family that was surviving on around a dollar a day.
Today, all this is history and Wekesa is now considered one of the most successful tourism ambassadors in Uganda, with an annual income of $4 million. He achieved this by founding Great Lakes Safaris and Uganda Lodges Ltd – one of the leading tour companies in Uganda.
“I was born in 1973 in a small village of Wakaka – in the current Manafwa District – to a family that was caught up in abject poverty to the extent that, by the age of nine, I had not gone to school and had been involved in smuggling,” says Wekesa.
“The time we were born was not good for the average Ugandan because everything was in short supply. That is how we got involved in smuggling.”
Wekesa has never forgotten that “the gomesi our mother covered herself with was the same gomesi we also covered ourselves with.”
His life changed when the Salvation Army, which ran a home for less privileged people in the neighboring Tororo District, visited his village looking for two boys from impoverished families. Wekesa was one of the lucky two. He transferred to Tororo in 1983, a district closer to the capital, Kampala.
“At the age of 10, I was taken to nursery school. I remember going for P1 interviews and the head teacher taking me to P2 as I was too old to study with six-year-olds. I liked primary school and wanted to be like every other child,” says Wekesa.
However, when he went to secondary school (Wairaka College for O-levels and St. Peter’s Tororo for A-levels) he did not enjoy studying.
“I liked other activities like sports, drama and was always in leadership positions at all levels. This made me an average [student].”
“Success does not necessarily come because you excel in class but because you have learned something in life,” he says.
In 1996, Wekesa was put on a bus to go to Kampala and look for a tourism school.
“I did a certificate for nine months. In 1997, I went out to look for my first job [and] became a sweeper earning approximately $10 a month.”
Wekesa later became an office messenger at Nile Safaris, earning $20 a month. He then shifted to another tour company, Habari Travels, where he was paid a dollar a day. His last stint at being an employee was with Afric Voyage, for $65 a month. It was during this time that he managed to save $200 in a year and started a briefcase company called Great Lakes Safaris in 2001. Wekesa’s first office was below a staircase in downtown Kampala.
Equipped with a phone and receipts, Wekesa would approach rich people, with Mercedes Benzes and new Coronas, and convince them to hire out their cars.
“I would attend weddings without being invited and market my services as a dealer in posh cars for hire,” he says.
Wekesa would also walk to Parliament and convince MPs to hire out their four-wheel cars to him. He would then go to tour companies and ask them to drive their clients to different tourism sites. Being a driver and having worked as a tour guide, Wekesa had to entertain the tourists while keeping the MPs’ cars in good shape and also making sure the companies were happy with his services.
While doing the tours, and reading books about tourism, his passion for the industry grew.
Off the top of his head, Wekesa can tell you that Uganda is 91,135 square miles, with around 1,056 different species that constitute about 11% of the world’s species of birds. Queen Elizabeth National Park has around 656 species of birds – the highest concentration of birds of any protected area in the world.
“The United States (US) has 784 different species of birds and rakes in $32 billion annually through retail sales only. Uganda’s GDP is only $22.8 billion.”
Wekesa’s change of fortune started in 2001 – the year he bought the first car – after organizing a trip for a woman from the World Bank.
“I gave her a good guide to Queen Elizabeth. She came back happy and said this was the most beautiful country she had ever visited. She told me she would do something for me once she got back to the US.”
“This taught me a good lesson. The sustainability of a business is satisfied clients.”
In the same year, the woman from the World Bank recommended Great Lakes Safaris to a research group from the World Bank.
“I gave the group to one of the best tour guides in Uganda, Martin Okoth. One of the guys was so happy he also promised to do something… I never took him seriously.”
Business then died down and it became so difficult that Wekesa contemplated closing the company.
“Something in me said ‘be resilient’. People advised me to close but I had to cling on. All this time, I would see tourists at the airport and wonder how Uganda could have such tourist attractions and people live in abject poverty. I said ‘I’m going to try to be a solution to this problem’ as my passion for tourism was so high.”
“Later, I got a call from Washington from a guy called Tom Carter, an editor with The Washington Times. He told me he had travelled with me on one of his trips to Uganda and had written about his experiences. The story was published and that is when tourists started flowing in.”
The change in fortunes allowed Wekesa to buy more vehicles and in 2003 he started buying property outside the city. Today, he has an eco-friendly hotel in almost every national park in the country.
Wekesa spends a lot of his time teaching young Ugandans to use tourism as a business. He wants the government to follow his lead.
“We must appreciate the fact that the government is full of people who were around during the hard times in the country. Their mindset is fixed on agriculture. However, I’m now happy the president is talking about tourism.”
He says the government should invest more in marketing tourism. Kenya spends $40 million on marketing every year, Tanzania $12 million, Rwanda $5 million, while Uganda spends just $600,000.
Uganda has the potential to become a favored destination for tourists.
“We have the best diversity of cultures. We have more inland water than any other country, 10 national parks, 12 game reserves, all unique in their own way. Uganda is like Africa compressed. It’s a convergence of all different types of attractions,” he says.
Most of the five-star hotels in East Africa are run by Kenyans, Indians and South Africans. Rwanda is building an $18-million tourism school while Tanzania has the best school in the region.
“Uganda’s government should also develop infrastructures for these tourists to use.”
For those still in doubt, Wekesa has only this to say: “If you want to see the most incredible beauty in the world, come to Uganda.”

The Smuggler Who Became A Sweeper  – Then A Millionaire

With all the excitement and anticipation that comes with holidays it is so easy to overspend. Here are a few tips to manage your holiday finances and still have a lot of fun.
<h4>Plan ahead</h4>
By booking early, there is time to shop around for the best deals on fares, accommodation and tour packages. If your plans aren’t already in place, you will have little flexibility and will have to accept whatever is available. Last minute bookings can cost you much more than if you had booked weeks, if not months, in advance. This can get really expensive particularly for a large family.
Air miles are useful in offsetting some of your ticket or accommodation costs. However, it is a challenge to find air mile tickets during peak periods.
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<h4>Draw up a holiday budget, and stick to it</h4>
You do not have to travel to an expensive and exotic location just because everyone else is doing so. Set an overall spending limit involving your family and try to stick to this. You will need to budget for the various aspects of holiday spending. Avoid borrowing to finance a holiday unless there is some certainty of an impending inflow of funds or other compelling reason to do so.
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Credit cards, debit cards or cash?
If you plan to use your cards while you are away, notify your bank or card company; as an added security precaution, many card providers look out for suspicious activity and your account may be suspended until they have confirmed that it is indeed you using the card.
As far as possible, use your debit card for withdrawals at ATMs during bank opening hours. Always hold some cash just in case your card is lost, stolen or fails to work.
Licensed bureau de changes are usually available at airports; this is very convenient particularly when you arrive, but they tend not to be as competitive as those in town. Also, be cautious when you patronize moneychangers, as there is the risk of being shortchanged or sold counterfeit money.
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<h4>Beware of roaming charges</h4>
The new-generation smart phones provide us with instant access to the internet. We thus unwittingly leave ourselves open to exorbitant international roaming charges. The continuous activity as soon as we switch on our electronic gadgets utilizes data, leading to constant charging and a shocking bill when you return home.
Fortunately, smartphones have a range of options and you can choose which services to switch off. After disabling data services, you can still make and receive calls and send and receive text messages. In addition, you can turn this feature on and off,  so you can still check your emails periodically.
You will have access to Wi-Fi hotspots at internet cafes and your hotel. Use ‘free’ hotspots with extreme caution, particularly for transactions; they may be convenient but are not always secure and you could be compromising your sensitive information. Reduce your vulnerability by using strong passwords and security software.
It makes sense to buy a local SIM card when you arrive at your destination, making calls will be much cheaper than using your usual number.
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<h4>Are you insured?</h4>
While vacations usually go without incident, you don’t want to be caught unawares. What if someone in your family suddenly becomes ill? What if your luggage gets lost or you have to cancel your trip? Travel insurance usually includes coverage for medical bills, lost baggage and cancellations. Read the fine print to ensure that you have the best coverage at affordable rates and make sure you have your medical insurance card.
Above all, remember that a vacation is really about spending quality time with loved ones, resting and having time for yourself. It doesn’t have to be expensive; you can rediscover your own environment by visiting places close to home, revisit your hobbies, pastimes, and sports. With a little careful planning, you can find a balance between having a holiday and still keeping your finances in check.
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For more personal finance tips, follow Money Matters With Nimi on Twitter: @MMWITHNIMI and Facebook: MoneyMattersWithNimi

Managing your holiday finances

South Africa’s favorite adventurous son, Mike Horn, regarded by many as the world’s greatest modern day explorer, was seduced by Switzerland while hitchhiking his way to Israel. It was the snow that won him over, before he’d even reached the sand of the Middle Eastern country.
While my first memory of hitchhiking in Switzerland is sharing a flagon of cheap wine at a small table in a very clean youth hostel with a young Tunisian and no dictionary, Horn immediately saw opportunity. Granted, he was considerably older than my then student self, but it speaks to his strategic contemporary self that he identified what he needed.
“It’s a safe and sure country to leave my family when I go out exploring; it has four seasons that allows me to practice all outdoor activities. It has some of the most diversified natural elements; it’s neutral and easy to travel to and from,” says Horn.
Lausanne is the Olympic capital of Switzerland, a treat for any serious sport and outdoors enthusiast. But Horn has a particularly African take on what works for him in this historical and wealthy city.
“What I love the most living in an expensive country is that everything works, it’s clean and everyone is always on time. You pay for what you get.”
Horn is an established brand in the extreme adventure environment. His website details journeys to places like the Arctic Circle, the Amazon River and various Himalayan peaks. All will challenge your body and mind. From the outside, it’s a bit like a 12-year-old’s adventure book.
“To be able to play the lead role in your dream and live it in reality makes me a privileged man. I have never started anything in life thinking I will fail. And that is how little boys dream. As we grow older we lose our dreams, but as I have grown older I kept my dreams young.”
Follow the road of Mike Horn’s history and you will arrive at his career destination, to which he must feel he was born – teaching others how to respect their environment.
Through his four-year conservation-education platform Pangaea, started in 2008, Mike and his team found enthusiastic youngsters, between the ages of 15 and 20, who he then groomed as environmental ambassadors in their respective countries. He did this through expeditions to places most only dream of; Antarctica, New Zealand, Malaysia and India among them.
On the various expeditions, the selected youngsters were given the opportunity to experience, explore and interpret different climates and surfaces.
“We must begin to take real steps towards ensuring that our planet can be respected and appreciated by all future generations…” says Horn.
These words are increasingly relevant, as the promises and targets emerging from endless conferences do more for the conference industry than the health of the planet.
This gives Horn a reason to try educate as many as he can.
His website speaks of over 200,000 miles and multiple circumnavigations being covered in pursuit of Pangaea’s goals, with more voyages in the pipeline. All of which will cost a lot of money. He says he’s in the right place to access these funds, with some of the world’s best-known brands close at hand.
“With Geneva next door, France on the other side of the lake and Italy a short drive away, we have access to the watch industry, banking, nutrition and technology and amazing universities,” he says.
But Horn stresses that such sponsors don’t give their money away easily. Even as a  Laureus World Sports Academy member, he had to do a little convincing.
“I have been very fortunate because when I proposed my projects to my sponsors they liked the idea. Credibility and authenticity is very important. Do not promise what you cannot do!”
And so they rolled in. Mercedes Benz, Panerai, Nespresso, Geberit, Mumm champagne, Scott Sports and Petzl, according to Horn all see value in his experience and knowledge.
“They are definitely your biggest investment.”
The link between the man and his sponsors is more obvious with some than others.
“For a watch company I’m a living test lab. Making timepieces that I use as navigational instruments and that I test for long periods of time in the field at extreme temperatures and altitudes makes it a unique and authentic test lab. Once the watch has survived the expedition, Panerai makes a limited special edition timepiece with my signature. Mercedes Benz use me for internal and external communication.”
Mike says while it’s difficult to measure the return on their respective investments, he has adopted a personal solution to determining the value clients get from his association with them.
“If you always do what you promise to do for them, and are willing to give more than they ask, reinventing yourself with new projects, I think it is worth it for them.”
This Johannesburg-born adventurer’s next expedition is Pole to Pole, another first in the adventure world. Horn will make solo journeys to both the North and South Poles, crossing the Arctic and Antarctica on foot and by skis.
When crossing the Pacific and Atlantic Ocean, he will be on board his sailing vessel Pangea.
As with most of his missions, Horn won’t have support; although for much of the time there will be people in the vicinity, as a camera-crew will be shooting for international film producer Goldcrest, which is producing a series on the adventure.
He aims to complete Pole to Pole within a year.
Beyond the physical endurance required for this latest venture – which he is preparing for by cycling, climbing and dragging car tyres around Swiss mountains – it requires significant effort to put these expeditions together.
“There are a lot of sacrifices you have to be prepared to make… sacrifices with family because (I am) often away from home, friends you don’t often see, and very little free time.”
Indeed, Horn suffered a tragedy when his wife, New Zealander Cathy, passed away shortly before we conducted this interview.
“I find myself with a massive gap to fill in my private and business life… Cathy was the rock and pillar of everything I ever achieved”.
Almost as if she had planned it, Cathy prepared their teenage daughters to help with the business while they were studying; a seamless transition doubling up as a comforting distraction for this hard-travelling man.
“They know the brand best,” he says, hardly surprising considering that he took them to the North Pole when they were barely in their teens.
And so the business of Mike Horn continues where it makes sense, in Switzerland. It couldn’t have happened anywhere else.

‘I’ve Never Started Anything Thinking I Will Fail

You’ll find Cameroonian-born Fidelis Ebot Tabe in the heart of Cape Town, among colorful hats and caps, bargaining with customers. He’s tall and bursts into a smile whenever he speaks. At first glance he’s just another street trader among many, but this man has got a PhD in it.
“I didn’t invite my family to my graduation, after six years I couldn’t believe it, so I just told them when I got home,” he says.
His first degree in Cameroon was in history. He applied to professional schools to teach, but didn’t get in. Instead, he began trading food – dried prawns, dried fish and palm oil. After a friend told him about the prospects, he raised money and moved to South Africa.
“If I came down here, things would be better,” he says.
His South African story started 15 years ago in Mitchells Plain, a township in Cape Town located in the Cape Flats, selling caps, sunglasses and mobile accessories.
“Mitchells Plain is like a warzone, you must watch out all the time, it’s so rough” he says.
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While trading on the streets, he did his honors and master’s in history through the University of the Western Cape (UWC).
“I was in the town center in Mitchells Plain in 2007, there was a process to upgrade the center. At the end of the process, we had to choose trading bays. The issue came up of people who were there before, what we call historic traders, they gave them the opportunity to choose sides and what size they needed. For people who had been there for seven or eight years, they just gave us small bays. When it came to me doing street trading, I started looking at what policies were there before and how things were done before,” he says.
He registered for his PhD and started an analysis of street trading in Cape Town. His research began in the CBD, a hub of activity with street traders along every street. He interviewed traders who mirrored his experience.
“They had similar histories to myself, there were a lot of foreign traders in the city center. When the question came as to why foreign traders dominate, the response was that South Africans were not interested in street trading at the time. Now, when South Africans come, there isn’t any space for them and they start to complain. The foreigners took the opportunity but they prefer the CBD which is safer than the townships where there are always clashes between locals and foreign nationals,” he says.
South Africa has suffered from violent xenophobic attacks. In May 2008, thousands of foreigners were forced to flee their homes in townships across the country when people attacked them in a wave of xenophobic violence. April saw an upsurge in xenophobic attacks throughout the country as armed gangs once again attacked immigrants. At least five people have died; shops looted and destroyed.
“Home is home. In Cameroon you sleep in peace, you don’t have crime or xenophobia there. You go to our market and you have Malians there and Nigerians there. We don’t envy them. We live happily with them, they are our friends. When they go home, you long for them to come back. But here it’s a completely different story,” he says.
He dreams of being back in Cameroon one day.
“But to go home, you need money. I’ve been here for 15 years and what do I have to show them back home?” he says.
Ebot Tabe wanted to challenge the stereotypes of the street trader.
“There’s this idea that street traders are poor. From my interviews with traders, they were not poor people. People actually left their jobs to become street traders because they believed that they would make more from street trading than from formal employment. And it’s true,” he says.
When it comes to street trading, a lot of people sell the same thing but Ebot Tabe explained that traders are a community that support each other.
“In Trafalgar Place in town, the flower sellers aren’t ideally located. There are just three stands in front of Adderley Street and the rest are at the back. They sell the same thing but you only see the people who stand in front. They began a rotation, so every day they would move one place down so that each person has the opportunity to sell in the front,” he says.
After six years of research, rewrites and clashes with his supervisor, he graduated in March this year.
“I’ve never found street trading frustrating until now. Why should I be sitting here? I hope to become a lecturer one day and not remain a street trader. I want to teach public and urban history so I can bring in my experiences,” he says.
For now, the doctor of street trading is selling in Mitchells Plain.

A PhD From The Streets

The new controversial South African visa requirements have been labeled an economy killer and sparked widespread jitters in the tourism business.
Foreigners who want to visit South Africa must apply for visas in person at South African embassies to have their biometric data captured. Residents of countries who require a short-stay visa for South Africa and do not have a South African embassy in their country or city, will have to travel. Parents and guardians traveling with children, must be in possession of an unabridged birth certificate.
<div id="attachment_3789" style="width: 310px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-3789" class="size-medium wp-image-3789" src="/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/0000223010-300x196.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="196" />CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA &#8211; APRIL 28: Deputy Minister of Home Affairs, Fatima Chohan meets to discuss the recent xenophobic violence on April 28, 2015 in Cape Town, South Africa. The Portfolio Committee on Home Affairs hosted a meeting with Ministers of Home Affairs, Small Business Development as well as Police on the challenges of xenophobic violence and looting of foreign owned shops. (Photo by Gallo Images / Die Burger / Deon Raath)</div>
While the tourism industry cries foul, Deputy Minister of Home Affairs, Fatima Chohan, defended the new regulations. She argues that the migration laws have not been changed for 15 years and that the regulations are in line with international rules against child trafficking. An estimated 30,000 children are trafficked through South Africa each year, according to government.
“Research suggests that it will cost the South African economy 21,000 jobs and around R10 billion ($809 million). By the end of 2014‚ the number of visitors from China and Brazil had dropped 70% and 62% from the year before‚” says Beverley Schäfer‚ the spokesperson on Economic Opportunities‚ Tourism &amp; Agriculture from the opposition party, the Democratic Alliance.
South Africa began implementing new immigration regulations in May 2014. From May to December, South Africa lost 66,000 foreign tourists due to changes in the immigration regulations.
The Association of Southern African Travel Agents (ASATA) has estimated the new rules will hit 15% of tourists.
“In 2014, South Africa received 9.55 million foreign overnight tourists, an increase of 7,5 percent over that recorded in 2013. Demand from all overseas markets steadily dissipated throughout the year, coming off highs of 8,6 percent in the first four months of the year to a decline of 1,2 percent in the last four months. Assuming a 20 percent drop in demand from the family market will result in a direct, indirect and induced loss to the South African economy of at least R10 billion ($809 million) per annum and potential job losses of around 24,000,” says ASATA.
The damage to the South African economy so far is R2.6 billion ($210 million) and a threat to more than 5,800 jobs, it says. In the future, ASATA warns of the loss of 100,000 tourists with R1.4 billion ($113 million). This translates to a net loss to the GDP of around R4.1 billion ($331 million) and 9,300 jobs.
Despite South Africa’s economy facing another hit, the hospitality sector is poised for further growth in the next five years in the wake of a number of inbound travelers into the African continent, according to a report issued by PricewaterhouseCoopers (PwC) in June. The hotel industry in 2014 benefited from an increase in foreign visitors and rising room rates. The new visa regulations, could scupper this.
“Many in the industry fear that international tourists will not consider South Africa as a destination, which already has a number of issues and concerns despite being a cheap destination. International visitors especially those from India or China or those traveling with families may chose a destination where entry requirements are less onerous,” says Nikki Forster, a director and partner at PwC.
South Africa’s Minister of Tourism, Derek Hanekom, admits tourism has been hit. At the World Economic Forum on Africa he hinted that there would be a review.
“The current requirements [are] up for discussion right now as we speak, so it is not engraved in stone… We are in very intense discussions on this and I think we will find each other and find the right balance between legitimate defending, legitimate interests of the state and defending your national security interests and not putting unnecessary requirements on people wanting to travel to South Africa,” he said.
The Department of Tourism has since stated there will not be a review, but that talks about implementation will continue. The ministerial cabinet has resolved to set up a team of ministers to discuss and engage with any concerns to address the unintended consequences of the regulations.
With reports that Air China has cancelled the launch of direct flights to South Africa over the regulations, many of the continent’s finest resorts fear the threat of too much room at the inn.

The $809-Million  Question

Within minutes of driving out the parking lot at the Kathmandu airport, the first earthquake struck. Our vehicles rocked from side to side, like boats on a choppy ocean. At first, we didn’t realize what was going on. When the shaking continued and we saw people screaming and running from the airport – we realized we were amid the worst earthquake Nepal had ever seen.
In 2013, I took 15 middle management executives from the ABN Group to the top of Kilimanjaro. Soon after our return, we started planning the next adventure – Everest Base Camp (EBC). The earthquake changed everything.
<img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-30060 alignleft" src="http://www.forbesafrica.com/app/uploads/2017/05/IMG_2070-200x300.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="300" srcset="https://cms.forbesafrica.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/IMG_2070-200x300.jpg 200w, https://cms.forbesafrica.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/IMG_2070-300x450.jpg 300w, https://cms.forbesafrica.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/IMG_2070-600x900.jpg 600w, https://cms.forbesafrica.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/IMG_2070-683x1024.jpg 683w, https://cms.forbesafrica.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/IMG_2070.jpg 682w" sizes="(max-width: 200px) 100vw, 200px" />
When the tremors stopped, we had a chance to assess the situation. From the airport in Kathmandu, we could see black dust billowing from the city. The magnitude of the tremors was more than I had ever experienced in my life. We were told that the airport was closed and the runway had cracked. The intensity of the earthquake and the damage was not clear. It became so as we made our way to our hotel.
By this time, all the residents of the city had moved into the streets. Dharahara Tower, the tallest building in the city, had collapsed. Icons, like the Dharahara Tower, are pillars of pride. When they fall, it makes people desolate and uncertain, particularly when most of the buildings are old and poorly maintained.
The tremors continued at frequent intervals and in the frenzy our vehicles were separated. Our driver was young and seemed to have lost his nerve. He took us into a built-up area in the city, parked the car in an enclosed parking lot and without saying a word deserted us. We never saw him again. I was with Gary Fernandes and Biju Vetil who are both senior members of the Transnational Education (TNE) management. By this time, the network was clogged and we were unable to contact Chris Pilgrim and other members of our team in Kathmandu. We were, however, able to connect intermittently with our HR Manager, Bidisha Sen, in Dubai. The most important thing was to let everyone’s families know we were safe.
By 1PM, my son Sidharth, who is based in Johannesburg, started providing me with information based on what he was able to pick up from news reports. We were told that there was another severe quake expected at 3PM. Since we were stranded, the three of us decided to go towards a canal in an open area until the next wave of tremors. By 4PM, we asked a person in the garage to drive us to our hotel;  he reluctantly agreed. The journey was eventful as most roads were blocked by fallen buildings and debris. Kathmandu is an old city and the streets are extremely narrow. Another death trap was the low hanging power cables that are part of a dilapidated grid. While most of the city had lost power, there were still some main cables that burst at the nodes as we were passing by. By this time, everyone had evacuated their homes and moved into the streets. By 5PM, we regrouped with the team at our hotel.
The hotel was in disarray. All the guests had moved into the lobby and the small courtyard outside. It was getting cold and people went to their rooms hesitantly to collect sleeping bags and blankets for the night ahead. I assembled the team and my first goal was to make sure that everyone was calm. I stressed that we had to stay together and the safety of our team was paramount. We agreed that we had to abandon the trek and plan an exit strategy.
The airport was closed. Our next option was to get transport to the Indian border and cross to Delhi to fly to Dubai. This needed visas from the Indian embassy as we had four other nationalities: Canadian, Chinese, Filipino and Egyptian.
<img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-30061 alignleft" src="http://www.forbesafrica.com/app/uploads/2017/05/IMG_2081-300x200.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="200" srcset="https://cms.forbesafrica.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/IMG_2081-300x200.jpg 300w, https://cms.forbesafrica.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/IMG_2081-600x400.jpg 600w, https://cms.forbesafrica.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/IMG_2081-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cms.forbesafrica.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/IMG_2081.jpg 1024w" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" />
We were told that the Indian Air Force had deployed C-130 aircraft to evacuate Indian nationals. The team agreed that we were not going to evacuate piecemeal until there was a proper plan for each member. It was clear to me that I would be the last to leave. I also realized, rather than listening to rumours, a physical recce of the airport was needed so that I could decide whether it was going to be an air evacuation or by road.
The news from social media and family came in. The extent of the damage was not clear but by this time we knew about the avalanche at EBC, the devastation at the epicentre and the rising casualties. We could hear the sirens of ambulances and rescue workers moving around trying to help people trapped in the rubble.
My team was tired and emotionally drained but never showed a moment of weakness nor despair. I wanted to make sure that we found a place to eat. The city had shut down; nothing was open other than small grocery stores selling water and basic food. People had left their place of work and returned home to care for their families. We found a small restaurant and were told the only dish they could serve was chow mein. The half cooked and barely warm dish was perhaps the tastiest chow we had ever eaten.
After dinner, Chris and Biju went on a mission to find a taxi to go on a recce. They found a broken-down vintage taxi that Gary and I rode to the airport. It had started drizzling and it was heartrending to see families, particularly children, sleeping on the streets. Some people were keeping a vigil to make sure that their groups were safe. To our delight, we found lines of tourists and expatriates lined up to fly out. The only operational flights were by the Indian Air Force which gave me the comfort that commercial airlines would soon start flying in. This is the information that I needed to have a proper plan for the next day.
My wife Saloni had been in touch with all the airlines flying out from the UAE and had made tentative bookings for us on Air Arabia. By 3AM, our seats were secured on the 10.55PM flight from Kathmandu to Sharjah on Sunday.
We had a sleepless night which saw several tremors, including a severe one at 5AM. It rained and was freezing cold. We had to move into the dining area where the guests were crammed like sardines. People were edgy, every time a chair moved they darted to the open courtyard.
At 7AM, we received a princely breakfast of tea, slices of bread and jam. It was a blessing. At 9AM, the hotel owner came to meet us and offered us a lift in his van. The only problem was it was the team or the luggage; not both. Since we had over 12 hours until our flight, I asked him to take the baggage. Our travel agent assured us it would get to the airport.
We decided not to walk through the built-up areas as a lot of the buildings were unstable. We found a map and planned our more than 20 kilometer route along the canal and then finally on to the wide main road to the airport. The extent of the damage and the displacement of people we saw while walking was an eye opener. The open areas were packed and temporary shelters, of tarpaulin and plastic, were everywhere. Rescuers pulled dead bodies from the wreckage. We were full of remorse and knew it could have been us.
<img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-30062" src="http://www.forbesafrica.com/app/uploads/2017/05/IMG_2191-300x200.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="200" srcset="https://cms.forbesafrica.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/IMG_2191-300x200.jpg 300w, https://cms.forbesafrica.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/IMG_2191-600x400.jpg 600w, https://cms.forbesafrica.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/IMG_2191-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cms.forbesafrica.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/IMG_2191.jpg 1024w" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" />
After a six-hour march, that included the second-most severe earthquake at 1PM, we finally made it to the airport. We joined long lines of people waiting to board commercial planes. The airport had been shut down once again and we had no idea if we would fly out. My wife stayed in close contact with the airline and at 6.30PM told us that the flight had taken off from Sharjah. Hope was revived. We checked in at 9PM and the way the baggage was piled up in the airport, and the lack of any tracking and staff, made it evident that the luggage was not going anywhere. We boarded at 1AM and took off an hour later to the cheers of relieved and exhausted passengers. The ordeal, for us, was over. Our families and the hot coffee and muffins at the airport more than compensated for our lost baggage that we have no hope of getting back. I only hope the contents make it to the needy people of Nepal and not into the hands of thieves.
This experience was a reality check. We often believe we are infallible; the truth is we are far from it. I was just happy that I could bring all members of my team back safely. I would not have been able to live with myself if anything untoward had happened. Our team members in Dubai and families stepped up and played a crucial role in lifting our morale. We went there for a team building exercise. Nothing prepared the team for a real life catastrophe that brought out the best in each of them and brought them together as a family and inspired them to contribute to the suffering people of Nepal.

IMG_2301

Remorse And  Rubble In  Nepal

Mandla Maseko struts with the cool of Michael Jackson’s moonwalk. It is appropriate as the DJ is the first black African heading into space. He describes himself as a township boy reaching for the stars. Soon he will be walking in the footsteps of Mark Shuttleworth, the South African millionaire who became the first African in space in 2002. For years, Maseko dreamed of the skies but thought it was merely that.
The former civil engineering student dropped out of university because he was broke.
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“We grew up in the township, we were not taught to dream big. We just wanted to be the norm.You never wanted to be a president or an astronaut, it was a far-fetched dream,” he says.
In 2013, the Global Axe Apollo Space Academy competition created a new trajectory for Maseko’s dreams. No one in Maseko’s family has set foot outside of South Africa but the 25-year-old is preparing to rocket into space.
Maseko is one of 23 civilians to win a seat on the space mission for an hour-long sub-orbital trip of 100 kilometers on the Lynx Mark II spaceship.
“We might orbit the Earth or we might just go to the International Space Station, you never know,” he says.
Whether its space or the skies, Maseko is taking wing. Maseko acquired his private pilot license last year and began training with the South African Air Force this year.
“I want to acquire my commercial pilot’s license and fly all over the world,” he says.
“The initial plan is to show ordinary people that they can go into space. That’s my mission. I’m a typical township boy from Soshanguve and Mabopane who is going to space,” he says.
Maseko has found the balance between space, the skies and his passion for music.
“Music is my passion and it’s a family business. My dad and I do it together. It would be nice to bring something new to the industry and DJ in a spacesuit.”
Training for the space journey was challenging but Maseko floated through it. A zero gravity flight was his favorite.
“Seeing your body pick up off the ground and just float like it has no weight stood out the most,” he says.
Maseko spends his free time imagining what space is like.
“You see pictures but actually getting to that point where I look outside my window and see this big white and blue marble called Earth,” he says.
His life has taken a complete turn. For the DJ on his way to space, Maseko’s most memorable moment may surprise you.
“I think what stood out the most was making it on to Beyoncé’s website. It was Black History Month and I was part of the people making black history,” he says.
Maseko hopes his humble beginnings and lofty ambition will inspire.
“The kids in the township have lost sight of what life has to offer. It’s killing their dreams,” he says. He started a CSI company called ‘Skies Aren’t the Limit’ so he could tell his story to schools.
“I think one of the key things around South Africa is to inspire and motivate kids and tell them that they can reach their dreams,” he says. He is living proof.
Probably next year, the date has yet to be fixed, Maseko’s dreams will come true. The flight is an hour long. Six minutes to get to space. 20 minutes to get to zero gravity. Maseko will go through a gruelling training programme of six to eight weeks. From Mabopane to the Milky Way, you couldn’t have made it up.

from africa To The Stars

I have always been intrigued by sub-Saharan trade. In the interest of understanding caravan journeys better, I made trips to Mali and Morocco to observe their most famous routes. Goods such as gold, ivory – and regretfully, millions of  slaves – were moved from sub-Saharan Africa to Timbuktu, then through the desert and over the Atlas mountains to Marrakech and onto the port of Essaouira, which served as Morocco’s principal port, offering the cargo of the caravans to the world.
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My journey from Casablanca airport to Essaouira was a 400-kilometer ride that passed along the Atlantic sea coast and then inland along plateaus dotted with argan trees endemic to the region and known the world over for its use in producing aromatic oil. It was late in the night when I arrived in Essaouira, an Arabic/Berber medina contained within a European fortress with winding alleys and streets. Finding my seafront hotel was an adventure in itself, in a town with many dead-end alleyways.
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It was a moment of great excitement when I opened my windows, illuminated by the Maghreb sunlight, and realized my room was right on top of the ramparts of the fort overlooking a broad seafront. Later, while walking along the crenellated ramparts of the cannon-lined fort, I could see the city wake up on one side while the finest fisheries off the waters of Morocco were coming alive with boats and attendant gulls on the other. Upon reaching the port, I caught a glimpse of the lives of fishermen who were unloading their large catches of sardines and conger eels; a haul big enough to sustain its economy.
The historic charm of the UNESCO World Heritage listed city is evident in every twist and turn in the maze of pedestrian-only streets that make up the medina. Broken facades and decorative doors open to reveal ancient Kasbahs lined with courtyards and fountains. Essaouira has been in existence in recorded history since the days of imperial Rome, where the purple stripes of the senatorial toga (garment of ancient Rome) came from a dye factory, made from sea snails found here. Ruled by Romans and then by Berber kings, it was swept up under the influence of Islam in the eighth century and ruled by Arab kings until the Portuguese captured it in the 16th century. This was followed by French occupation and it finally came under Moroccan rulers in 1777 when it was declared an independent nation.
This rich history of occupation has provided Essaouira with a French-designed fortress, Genoese-designed port citadels, a classic Arabic medina complete with a royal Kasbah, Jewish mella or quarter and a European enclave.
Walking through its winding streets I could see Arabic, French and Spanish influences in the architecture.
Essaouira’s real beginning as an import-export center came in the 1770s when the sultan of Morocco appointed families from Casablanca, Marrakech and other northern cities to settle here and become official royal traders to conduct trade with Europe and the Americas. It has been noted that seven of the town’s leading families in the 19th century were Muslim, while 25 were Jews, who once comprised 40% of the population.
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The homes of former Jewish traders and the synagogue reveal themselves through Hebrew carvings on the door lintels.
The souk area was quite interesting with many shops selling spices, wood carvings and cabinetry. Unlike the bustle found in the souks of Marrakesh, the pace here was very relaxed under the warm sunlight and a steady breeze from the ocean. The fort area has more upscale shops while the souks had a classic Arabic atmosphere. The delicious seafood available in restaurants around the harbor was absolutely amazing and at very reasonable prices. I found men here wearing the classic djellabas and women walking around in colorful qmis (long jacket) covering their baggy pants.
Essaouira is best reached from Marrakesh by road and can be covered as a day trip. Emirates Airline can fly one to Morocco from any big African city via Dubai.
With its unspoilt beaches, luxurious hotels, wonderful cafes and seafood restaurants, Essaouira is fast becoming a must-visit destination. Morocco has a lot to offer. In this context, Essaouira is often ignored. But for the intrepid traveler, it offers a special place where the caravans of the Sahara finally emptied its wares for the world to consume.

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